Tuesday, November 17, 2009

The Soup Must Go On

Chilly weather stirs the cook’s whimsy to soup. Of the 45 heirloom tomato varieties we so lovingly started last spring only a motley crew of color, shape, and texture remains, still tasting better than any tomato in the supermarket. Since mid August they have been plucked fresh, roasted, sauced, and dried. Plenty have been preserved and stored away like buried treasure. Time to move on… but a tomato is a terrible thing to waste.

My end of the season approach is to select and clean up anything with color and chuck it all in a pot with some sea salt. To equally salvage the stragglers in my pepper bed I roast them first and add them to the mix for another layer of flavor. It quickly cooks down to mush and then strained in my good old fashioned food mill to remove the skins and seeds. Next it simmers all night in an uncovered slow cooker. By morning the mixture has reduced and condensed the goodness. What’s left makes a hearty tomato soup base with a south of the border kick. This can be thinned out with chicken stock or thickened with a Béchamel (white) sauce. There are many options but the result is always warming comfort.

Here is a basic recipe. Do try this at home.

Cream of Tomato Soup.
Serves 4-6

2 or more garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup onion diced
2 cups fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped (canned can do)
Fresh or dried basil to taste
Salt and pepper

In the bottom of your soup pot, sauté the garlic and onions in a little olive oil until clear, then add the tomatoes and cook down for 15 minutes. Puree small batches in a blender or food processor. Strain out the seeds if you like and return the blend to the soup pot. Keep on low heat and season.

Béchamel or White Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
1½-2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 cup milk
Pinch of nutmeg

Using a medium sauce pan, melt the butter. Add and blend in the flour over a low heat 3-5 minutes. Slowly stir in the milk. Cook and stir the sauce with a wire whisk until thick and smooth.
THE TRICK TO AVOID CURDLING, first add ½ - 1 cup of the hot tomato stock to the white sauce, then gradually ladle the creamed mixture into the soup.

Serving Suggestions – top with crème fraiche, croutons, toast, pesto, grated cheese, bacon, fresh or crispy fried herbs, red onions or leeks.

Let your larder be your guide.

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